We respond and tells us about the dangers that homemade masks pose to the skin
We said last week that maybe we are using beauty masks beyond our possibilities. Maybe yes and that, far from benefiting our skin, we are harming it.
Now, overmasking isn’t the only potentially skin-damaging fad. Skincare experts also advise against making masks at home, something that we are seeing a lot in networks, before and after #yomequedoencasa.
Homemade masks. DIY cosmetics (“do it yourself” or “do it yourself”). Yes, you know: ointments based on egg white, papaya, cucumbers, yogurt … Although our grandmothers defended these concoctions and attributed beauty properties similar or similar to those of store cosmetics, today we know that this does not it is so.
We want to give a voice to those who know the most about cosmetic formulation because we wonder if this desire to play at being a cosmetologist, coupled with an alleged desire to save, can lead us to damage the skin if we use homemade masks.
Do not trust what you read on the Internet. Listen to those who know the most. Bella Hurtado (Aromatherapy Associates education director), Raquel González (Perricone MD education director), Elisabeth San Gregorio (Medik8 technical director), Valeria Navarro (Boutijour technical director), and Estefanía Nieto (Omorovicza technical director) give their point of view.
The reasons why masks should not be made at home are these:
Reason 1: Fruit and vegetable rust
A mask is not a smoothie or a gazpacho. “Fruits and vegetables tend to oxidize easily. We see it with an apple if we leave it exposed to the air for a few minutes. Thus, ingredients that can be antioxidants can become pro-oxidants ”, explains Bella Hurtado.
As an expert, she argues that laboratories treat these ingredients to prevent them from oxidizing and, in fact, they work with active ingredients treated in the laboratory and with reformulated extracts (often synthesized).
Reason 2: They are not stable principles
Just because a well-made vitamin C serum helps lighten your skin, it doesn’t mean that orange does the same. Misused vitamin C can irritate the skin or cause blemishes. Raquel González explains: “To avoid this, we work with formulations in which vitamin C is stabilized. It is not usual to work with ascorbic acid – pure vitamin C – as such, but with stable forms such as tetraexyldecyl ascorbate or ethylated ascorbic acid.
If we apply lemon juice to a mask, for example, we will surely irritate the skin and generate long-term spots, because it is not a stable principle and will vary depending on the light, air, etc., producing the opposite effect to the desired ”.
Reason 3: Failure to drive
Those who formulate creams, serums, and masks already know that having a good asset is just as important as having a good vehicle delivery system. That is, a cosmetic is more or less effective depending on the encapsulation system in which the ingredient is introduced.
“The active principles are not usually released on the skin just like that. A good formulation requires that the active be encapsulated, usually in polymers that direct the principle and deliver it to the cells ”, explains Elisabeth San Gregorio.
Reason 4: Scrubs can be harmful
Forget the coffee or sugar bean scrub. “In the mechanical exfoliants sold in stores, the exfoliating particles have been perfectly spherified in the laboratory to avoid irritation”, explains Valeria Navarro. Salt and sugar particles or ground bone, for example, have edges that can create micro dermabrasions or wounds.
In any case, the most sensitive skins should not undergo mechanical exfoliation, either from a store or made at home. “Better to use chemical or enzymatic peels. They will be just as effective but gentler on the skin and will prevent possible cellular inflammation that, in the long run, can even accelerate the aging process of the tissue ”, points out Raquel González.
Reason 5: What about the bioavailability of the principles?
You may be wondering, to begin with, what is bioavailability? Well, in the words of Estefanía Nieto, “it is the acceptance that the skin has to receive different principles. There are assets that can be super beneficial for the skin, but if it does not assimilate them easily … They are useless.
It happens with minerals, for example, which are assimilated to a certain extent. When they become bioavailable, the skin understands them as related ingredients and accepts them, allowing them to be more effective ”. That will never happen by passing a stone across your face.