More than just a moisturizer. How and in what form the precious elixir works best to keep the skin smooth and firm over the long term.
Beauty miracle hyaluronic acid
Two drops massaged in before going to bed, two drops in the morning – and the skin looks plump and radiant like after an autumn walk. Do you think that sounds like hocus-pocus? Are you kidding me? Are you serious when you say that. A hyaluronic acid elixir actually works miracles. The secret: The power fabric absorbs moisture like a sponge – one gram can bind up to six liters of water! The hyaluronic acid contained in the new anti-aging creams and fillers goes deep and fills the skin’s moisture depots with lasting effect.
What is hyaluronic acid actually?
Contrary to what its name suggests, hyaluronic acid (from the Greek “hyalos” = glass) is a natural product. It is found throughout the body, over 50 percent of which is in the skin or in the intercellular spaces in the dermis.
The gel-like moisture magnet is produced by the connective tissue cells, where it develops into a real all-rounder: hyaluronic acid plumps up the skin, supports collagen and elastine fibers and can even intercept free radicals. But the effect is not permanent. From around the age of 25, the depots empty little by little . The skin’s own production no longer follows – you will notice that the elasticity is slowly decreasing. From 40, when the skin generally stores less moisture, deeper wrinkles can be seen. Time to help out from outside.
How do cosmetics use the substance?
Resourceful researchers came up with the idea of producing hyaluronic acid in the laboratory – from cocks’ combs. In order to rule out allergic reactions to animal proteins, the substance is nowadays mainly obtained biotechnologically from microorganisms (e.g. from wheat). Japanese cosmetics companies successfully brought hyaluronic acid onto the market as a serum as early as the 1980s. So the complexion looked dewy in no time, even after partying nights. However, the beauty effect only lasted for a short time. The reason: the large molecules remained on the skin and could not penetrate deeply. Today we are already a huge step further and can produce hyaluronic acid in smaller fragments.
This goal is being pursued in different ways: Decléor wants to stimulate hyaluronic acid production with wild pansy extract. Kanebo is based on a combination of beta-carotene, a hyaluron booster and a cocktail of rose, sandalwood and jasmine aromas. And Estée Lauder relies on prevention – with a sophisticated technology that slows down the enzyme that breaks down hyaluronic acid.
What is hyaluronic acid in?
The top moisturizer is not only found in anti-aging creams, but also in eye gels, cleansing products and hand and body creams. The trend: lifting care that makes the lips look full and voluminous. Small wrinkles also disappear in no time . A concentrated load of hyaluronic acid is traditionally provided by masks and serums – there is twice and three times as much in it as in the jar.
How can the doctor help?
A hyaluronic acid injection at a dermatologist is even more effective than creams. In so-called mesotherapy, hyaluronic acid is injected into the skin. Two or three sessions – and your complexion appears plumper, rosier and fresher. “Belotero”, “Glytone”, “Juvederm”, “Restylane”) bring more. They are injected into deeper layers of the skin to help line up medium to deep wrinkles. For lips and forehead about 6 months, nasolabial folds 6 to 9 months, cheeks 9 to a maximum of 15 months.
A study by the University of Hamburg shows that hyaluronic acid injections give the skin more elasticity. Allergies are rather rare with the skin’s own substance. “However, swelling and bruising can occur that can last for a few days,” warns Dr. Fatemi. Another not very favorable side effect: the price. A treatment, which lasts around 15 to 30 minutes, costs from 250 euros.